Mar 02, 2014  Question 1: I assume it is the last one or do I average out the values that Pronterface spits out? Question 2: Do i have to autotune the heated bed as well? The bed has a hard time reaching 110C and I assume this has to do with the autotune function. What is the code I would have to run if the bed is attached to D10 on Ramps 1.4 board? Back in the day, the easiest way to lower a car was to heat up the coil springs to lower the car. Today, there are many options for aftermarket springs and suspension components, but if you want to lower your car the old fashioned way, then there are some steps to follow to heat a set of springs to lower a car. Jun 09, 2016  I finally got it to work, you have to heat your bed withing 10 degrees of your target temperature then run the pid autotune, then it will work, as long as you have the pid autotune enabled in your marlin code and that other option below it commented out you are good to go, try that and let me know if it worked for you, if you haven't already figured it out.

1. Heated Bed Pad
2. Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins Park
3. Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins Club
4. Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins Club
5. Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins 2017
6. Heated Mattress
7. Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins For Sale

I just thought I'd throw out there that there is an easy way to massively improve your bed's temp stability. It's been mentioned in passing in other threads, but thought I'd make a clear thread for other newbies. The current SD3 beds are proper 'power beds' using Nichrome, making it possible to use PID effectively on the bed rather than just bang-banging to a set point on a resistor that is only centrally mounted. If you're unsure what type of bed you have, just check underneath feeling around the centre of the heat matting. If there is a noticeable lump - you have the 'older' style bed and are better off continuing as is as the hysteresis on that setup is huge. If you have no discernible lumps or crowns in your matting, congratulations, you have a 'power bed'.
EDIT: This should work with a qu-bd silicon mat as well as home made nichrome jobs as well or a PCB Heat Bed. I haven't tested anything other than on a standard bed, but the theory would continue to apply to other beds.

By enabling the

in Configuration.h of the firmware, along with

You must perform an upgrade install to gain your free Windows 10 license before you can perform a clean install.If your Mac reboots to Mac OS X, restart it, and select the Windows option.After upgrading to Windows 10, open the Apple Software Update application again and install any other available updates. You won’t have a product key, but it will automatically activate itself. Just go through the Windows 10 installation process normally and skip entering a product key. Windows to mac bootcamp. Everything should work normally.Install Windows 10 in Boot CampIf you’ve previously upgraded to Windows 10 once, your Mac’s hardware has been registered with Microsoft and you can.

I've seen a change from a 'saw tooth' temp graph on my bed with a +/- 5oC swing, to having it sit flatline @ the set tempreature. Its been constant in an unenclosed setup for over 20 mins with nary a dip in sight. Trade off though was a slightly increased duration to reach the set point.

It is important when you setup the PIDTEMPBED that you move down and follow the comment from the code:

Heated Bed Pad

I first defined just a standard bed PID, compiled and uploaded the firmware. The next bit is to *manually* enable the bed and get it up to 90oC. If you try and run the M303 tune on a standard bed that is at ambient, it will actually timeout from the auto-tune function before it even gets close to 90o. So heat that bed up using manual, and then do the M303 E-1 command above. Once it runs, you'll get the same error condition as you do when pid-tuning the extruder. Disconnect/Reconnect and then make a note of the last 'Classic PID' details returned from the auto-tune.

You now need to create your own 'pidautotune' entry in Configuration.h. I just cut n pasted the previous settings, commented those out, and then set the defined values to what I got via the auto-tune.

Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins Park

So now my configuration.h in the relevant section (Lines 161-183 in current lawsy-marlin) looks like:

Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins Club

You then of course need to recompile and reupload (a simple matter of ensuring RH is disconnected, then hitting upload in the Arduino IDE). Jailbreak download 4.1.

Alas, the 'Firmware Settings' option in RH is not applicable for Bed PID settings as they are not currently stored in EEPROM, only within the firmware source code .

Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins Club

Anyway - Doing the above has as I said taken my 'saw-tooth' temp and made it a straight flat line! Yay! This might help with warping considerably if the bed stays at a proper constant and doesn't have a 5oC deviation for periods.

Since the board is set up from the factory for bang-bang control for the heatbed and not PWM/PID control, I don't think there is any tuning you can do for the bed without reflashing the firmware with settings for PID/PWM. PWM/PID cannot be used with an external mechanical relay, only a FET or some solid-state relays. If using the on-board FET, it should be possible to use PWM/PID but only with reflashed firmware.

Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins 2017

After the bed reaches temperature, is it stable within a few degrees C?

Heated Mattress

If while heating up, there is massive temperature overshoot and/or a bad oscillation of temperature above and below the target temp, then yes, there is a problem that will need some tuning or redesign ( the bed thermistor may not be thermally connected to the bed well enough). Otherwise, don't worry about it.

Auto Tune Heated Bed Marlins For Sale

I haven't had any issues with wild temperature swings. I have my bed set up so I can use it with 12v through the FET for lower temperatures or with a flip of a switch, powered by a 20V power supply through a relay.